Keen hill walker Maja Staerke takes a peek below the waves as she explains why she now loves to combine snorkeling off the Scottish coast with exploring on foot.
Snorkeling probably does not come to mind when you think about Scotland. Even though the country is blessed with some of the world’s most beautiful beaches, the water temperature is anything but balmy. From around 5C during the coldest winter months to about 15C in the height of summer, it’s a test of endurance to stay in the water for any length of time. Which makes the commonly asked question ‘Isn’t it cold?’ a valid one.
My love for snorkeling goes back to my childhood when, aged 12, I was given my first mask and snorkel during a family holiday in Benidorm. I spend hours in the water and it has been one of my favourite holiday activities since.
I learned scuba diving in my early 20s and had my first experience of Scottish waters during my advanced diving course. I had heard other scuba divers rave that Scotland has some of the best scuba diving in the world and was keen to give it a try. Fully equipped with a dry suit I submerged into the green underwater world and was amazed how different it was to tropical climates.
Years passed and I developed my love for hill walking
There are many different factors that drive people to climb hills and over the years I learned that what I loved most was the solitude, beauty of nature and exploring new places. I was still drawn to water and sometimes combined loch-based adventures with mountains to create unforgettable trips. Finding different routes was a passion I developed and maps became my favourite planning tool – with quite a few trials and errors during my early years!
When I stood on my final Munro, Ladhar Bheinn, I thought my Munro adventure was over. I still remember the mix of emotions of utter happiness and also sadness that one of my greatest journeys had come to an end. For a long time I stood on the summit looking out towards the sea wondering “what’s next?”. Unknown to myself at the time, the answer was already in front of me… Snorkeling combined with hill walking in Scotland.
The beginning
The idea to go snorkeling was born in my living room. The usual annual trip to the far northwest was on the horizon and I was discussing plans with my other half. We wanted to climb some hills but wanted to do something else too. What about snorkeling!? A simple question turned into an idea and we spent the next weeks researching snorkeling in Scotland and buying equipment. What followed was an amazing holiday and a new passion for cold water snorkeling.
Fast forward 5 years and whilst bagging a combination of over 125 Munros and Corbetts, I have snorkeled in 49 different locations all over Scotland – not that I am counting, or keeping a list lol!
Why snorkel in Scotland?
The sea around Scotland is rich in marine life and is covered by vast kelp forests. Seals, whales, basking sharks and otters are some of our larger mammals. Fish, jellyfish, sea urchins, crabs, starfish and a huge variety of seaweed and kelp can be spotted in very shallow water. Start to snorkel along the rocky coastline and you will find a hidden world beneath this kelp forest. A nursery for cod, wrass and pollock. Cat sharks hunting for prey, giant lion’s mane jellyfish floating gently through the sea, carpets of sea anemones clinging like beautiful flowers to bare rock faces. The seven armed starfish, which can easily grow to the size of a dinner plate. Sunstars in their beautiful red and orange patterned bodies. Brittle starfish which in their thousands can sometimes cover huge areas and so much more.
It’s a world hardly explored and it’s waiting for you to discover it.
Can you combine hill walking and snorkeling?
Trust me when I say that both hobbies compliment each other perfectly.
– Sore legs from a day of hill walking? Believe me, these will be a thing of the past when you step into the cold water and gently float on the surface – it makes a great recovery day for your body.
– Annoyed that drizzle and low clouds might ruin your planned hill walk? No problem at all… once you are in the water it can rain as much as it wants and you won’t care.
– Have family or a partner who is really not into hill walking? Tempt them with snorkeling as an alternative!
– Only have a few hours on a Sunday before you need to drive home? Go for a quick snorkel to freshen up before a long journey home.
What do you need to snorkel in Scotland?
Over the past 5 years I have tried and purchased numerous bits of equipment and here are my recommendations based on warmth, comfort and safety.
The basics:
A 5mm wetsuit. This will be enough for 3 season snorkeling. There are a number of different wetsuits available. I tried and owned most types and my favourite is a two piece 5mm open cell spear fishing wetsuit. It sticks to you like a second skin and is the most comfortable and warmest suit I ever owned. A standard one-piece neoprene suit will be a cheaper option. On the plus side you can find them everywhere and their advantage is that they are far more robust. On the downside they tend to let in more water, which means you might get colder quicker. It is however a good choice for beginners and will last you for years.
Gloves, hat and socks. 3-5 mm neoprene gloves, hat and socks should keep you warm enough. Personally, I use 3mm as I find 5mm too bulky, but that depends on preference.
Mask and snorkel. An ill fitting mask will either let water in, or cause discomfort. Both factors that will easily spoil your fun. When buying a mask make sure it fits perfectly. It’s worthwhile buying one in a shop, so that you can try on a number of masks and get advice. There are also 3 different types of snorkels available. Which one you choose comes down to your own preference and it’s worth researching the different types. If in doubt I recommend buying a traditional snorkel.
Fins. Fins will make swimming and duck diving so much easier. When buying fins remember that neoprene socks easily make your feet 1 -2 sizes bigger. Always try fins with your neoprene socks on.
Good to have:
Weight belt. If you are planning to duck dive you will need a weight belt, otherwise you will struggle to get down (a wetsuit will make you very buoyant). The weight you will need depends on your body mass and can differ from person to person. As a general guidance, a 75-kilo person with a 5mm wetsuit will probably need a 5-kilo weight belt.
Floating device. A hi-vis floating device should be taken for safety. You will be able to be seen much easier and if you need a rest, you can hold on to it. Some floating devices are small platforms with pockets, great for a water bottle and storing keys etc.
Waterproof box. To store your car keys (especially electronic ones). You can attach the box to your weight belt, or floating device.
Camera. Underwater cameras can be expensive, but it’s also worth looking into waterproof housing for cameras. If you do buy a waterproof camera make sure it’s suitable for snorkeling. My first ‘waterproof’ camera was great until it became waterlogged. I had failed to read the small print, which said that it was only suitable for up to 30 minutes in the water – lesson learnt.
Good to know: There are a number of shops who rent out snorkel equipment.
Safety
One of the most important things in the water is to keep safety in mind at all times. It’s highly recommended that that you should never snorkel alone.
When snorkeling make sure that you stay close to the shore and know your exit routes. Remember that it’s sometimes easier to walk back than try to swim when you are cold or exhausted.
When snorkeling with others make sure you look after each other. Exit the water when the weakest person starts to get tired or cold – research and know the signs of hypothermia. Never leave anyone behind, or force someone to go beyond their comfort levels.
For complete novices, it’s worthwhile booking a guided snorkel tour or course.
Be aware of dangers
Sea urchins and jellyfish. Sea urchins and jellyfish are plentiful. Although barrel and moon jellyfish are harmless, lion’s mane and compass jellyfish, as well as a few others, can cause painful stings and cause allergic reactions. With a wetsuit, gloves, socks and a hat, you are protected, but you can still swim into one face first – been there done that. Make sure you are aware of your surroundings and know what to do when you get stung.
Currents and rip tides. Make sure you check if the beach has any currents or rip tides and avoid dangerous coastline. There are plenty of protected bays which should be used instead.
Tides. Tides change around every 6 hours and 12 minutes and the difference can be up to 5 metres in water height. Check out reliable tide times websites. Generally speaking a low tide is best for snorkeling, as you will see a lot more things, which would otherwise be covered by deeper water.
Weather. You should not snorkel during thunderstorms, or high winds. The sea will be rough and high waves are not only dangerous but can make snorkeling unpleasant. Aim for calm days if possible, and seek out protected bays or sea lochs, which tend to be a lot calmer.
Look, but please don’t touch!
This is the number one rule. Tempting though it is to pick everything up you see, there are consequences of not being kind to underwater creatures. You can easily squash an animal or kill it without realizing it. A crab might lose a limb, or you might stand on a delicate sea fan. Be kind and respectful and only take photos.
Where to find further information
Snorkel locations
A good starting point are the snorkel trails which have been developed by the Scottish Wildlife Trust. There is some good further advice on the Trust’s website.
Join Snorkel Scotland on Facebook
I have created the Snorkel Scotland Facebook page to share photos, locations and hints and tips. It’s not a business, but a community of like-minded people who enjoy snorkeling in Scotland.
Inspired?
I hope that I have inspired a few of you to give snorkeling a try… you might want to wait for warmer weather for your first dip so in the meantime let me take you to a journey below the surface of the north Atlantic
Eilean Ghlais – Coigach
It was a calm sunny day during the month of October. The outside temperature was barely reaching double figures, but the sea was still relatively warm for the time of the year. I had spotted Eilean Ghlais while researching new snorkel locations and even found a Walkhighlands route which helped tremendously planning the walk to the bay (Camas Eilean Ghlais).
We set off and I was pretty sure that we were the only people ever who ever started the walk dressed in wetsuits and flip flops. As usual when wearing a wetsuit and walking any kind of distance, I was soon sweating buckets and was looking forward getting into the water.
We walked along the muddy coastal path and walking in flip flops became quite hazardous. We walked slowly and were relieved when the path started to climb and the ground dried up. A terrain of grass, rocks and the odd boggy part made walking quite pleasant. Reaching the top of a small hill we were rewarded with great coastal views and our first glimpse of the island in the distance. Staying high above the cliffs and rocks, we continued along the path until we saw a tiny stretch of sand in the distance. Upon getting closer we realized that the beach was deserted. Climbing over some large boulder on our way to the beach, we soon reached the pristine white sandy beach.
What a lovely beach and spot! Getting ready we discussed the route and decided to snorkel around the island anti clockwise, which would give us a chance to explore the cliffs further along the bay area if we wanted.
Entering the water, the sand soon gave way to a blanket of kelp. Keen to get to the island, we swam the relatively short distance quickly.
Eilean Ghlais loomed above us and not wanting to lose any time we slowed our fin strokes and started to explore. The seabed was still thick with kelp and to investigate I ducked dived down. Below the seabed, a long rocky trench formed an underwater channel which I was keen to explore further. Needing some air, I surfaced and dived down again. Below the kelp I snorkelled through the green tunnel. Thick leaves of cuvie kelp swayed in the currents above me and star fish sat on the rocky ground below me. The trunk like stipes (stems) of the kelp, formed a world of purply green and provided hiding places for lots of animals I had yet to discover. It was simply magical. I surfaced again and continued my snorkel. In front of me a shore crab sat on a bed of toothed wrack and dulse. Diving down, the crab started to walk towards me, seemingly unafraid and ready to hold its ground and fight if necessary. I am always amazing how brave these little critters are.
Snorkeling along rays of sunshine that broke through the surface of the water I watched the beams of sunshine dancing on the outer tips of the kelp below me. A spectacle of light and shadow brought the world around me alive and small fish were swimming pass me without a care in the world.
I had now reached the edge of the island. A swell had started, very gently, but it was a good indication that I had left the sheltered bay area. I looked round and saw a rocky platform at the edge of the island. Swimming closer I kicked my fins and pulled myself up on the rocks. With my feet tangling in the water, I looked out towards the open ocean. The water was rising and falling gently around me with hardly any surface waves. I took my mask off and breathed in the fresh air through my nose. It was incredibly peaceful. Time did not seem to matter anymore and I felt at one with my surroundings.
When it was time to move on, I fixed my mask and let my body glide off the rocks and into the green world below we. Wanting to explore further I swam out towards the open sea. The seabed below me dropped suddenly and it was clearly getting too deep to see clearly. I swam back to the island and covered the distance with fast fin strokes to get warm again.
Fish dashed away from me and my surroundings blurred while I just concentrated on the fast swim. I was not only a visitor, but part of an ecosystem. I felt so free and happy. Slightly breathless I caught up with my partner who had waited for me. We spotted some cliffs across the bay and keen to explore more, we swam towards them. Looking up the cliffs a couple of sheep had found their down and stood not far away from the water on a grassy ledge eyeing us up suspiciously. I was laughing and the sound spooked them.
Looking around we suddenly realized that the sun was close to the horizon and started to cast long shadows onto the beach – time to leave the water. With our gear packed away, we started the walk back to the car. The full circuit walk around Coigach would need to wait, but the snorkel alone had been spectacular.